Fragrance Families
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The perfume universe is divided into various fragrance families, and most of us naturally gravitate toward certain types without even realizing it. We often find ourselves favoring specific fragrance families, while steering away from others, based on our personal preferences. Additionally, we may lean towards certain families in colder months and switch to lighter, more refreshing ones when the weather warms up.
In the perfume industry, "fragrance families" is a long-established system used to classify perfumes according to their dominant characteristics. This system not only helps consumers understand their own preferences but also assists perfumers in crafting scents that fit into recognizable categories.
⁃ Aquatic
With a refreshing outdoor feel, this family uses both natural and synthetic materials to evoke sea breezes, icy lakes, sunlit streams, frosty waterfalls, and salty oceans. Aquatics are one of the youngest fragrance families, having emerged in the 1990s as a response to the heavier, more overpowering scents of previous years. Suitable for all ages and appealing to both men and women, this fragrance family is perfect for warm spring and summer days, making it ideal for casual or sporty wardrobes.
⁃ Chypre
The term “Chypre” is French for Cyprus. The Chypre fragrance structure dates back to Roman times, and the term “Chypre” frequently appeared in 18th-century perfume manuals. In 1909, Guerlain launched “Chypre de Paris” and “Chypre 53,” but it was François Coty’s “Chypre de Coty,” released in 1917 and inspired by the island of Cyprus, that made this fragrance family popular. Chypre perfumes are known for their contrasting notes and typically feature bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum, sometimes accompanied by floral, fruity, or woody notes.
⁃ Citrus
One of the oldest and most classic fragrance families, citrus scents are lively and uplifting, featuring notes like lemon, bergamot, orange, grapefruit, and mandarin. These notes tend to evaporate quickly on the skin, making them short-lived. Fresh, invigorating, and clean, this group is often found in Eau de Toilette (EDT) and Eau de Cologne (EDC) forms.
⁃ Floral
The most popular and easily recognizable fragrance family, floral scents are distinctly feminine and often based on notes like jasmine, peony, gardenia, rose, magnolia, and mimosa. Jasmine and rose, two of the most beloved floral notes, form the foundation of nearly every classic perfume and are key pillars of the fragrance world. Floral fragrances can be warmed up with spices or fruits to create more depth.
⁃ Fougere
In French, “fougère” means “fern,” which offers a clue about this fragrance family’s style. Often characterized by sharp, fresh, aromatic herbs like lavender, coumarin, geranium, vetiver, bergamot, and oakmoss, fougere perfumes are predominantly used in men’s fragrances. The first example of this family is the “Houbigant Fougere Royale,” created in 1882. Fougere is closely related to the green fragrance family, but softer in nature. As the niche fragrance world becomes more adventurous in the 21st century, fougere notes are increasingly intersecting with other families.
⁃ Fruity
Fruity notes have a long history in perfumery: for instance, the iconic pineapple accord that made Aventus a star was first used in the 1920s by Jean Patou. Fruit-based fragrances have evolved over the years, with fig being another great example of this development. Fruit notes are often blended with floral, green, oriental, or chypre fragrances. This playful, cheerful, and gender-neutral fragrance family includes notes like cherry, blackcurrant, blackberry, fig, pear, guava, raspberry, strawberry, apple, pomegranate, peach, apricot, and melon.
⁃ Gourmand
One of the newest fragrance families, Gourmand fragrances draw on the close connection between scent and taste. These perfumes evoke the deliciousness of sweet, creamy, buttery, or frosted foods. The first example is often considered to be Thierry Mugler’s “Angel.” Since Angel, perfumes with an “edible” quality have become hugely popular. Gourmand fragrances include notes like caramel, chocolate, milk, cotton candy, coffee, cognac, candy, almond, and vanilla. Spices and sometimes amber often accompany these notes. This family is warm and best suited to cooler seasons.
⁃ Green
Green fragrances are fresh, slightly sharp, lively, energizing, natural, and clean, dominated by leafy and grassy accords. They often overlap with floral, fougere, woody, and citrus families. Green perfumes evoke images of fields, meadows, grass, and forests, bringing a soothing sense to the wearer. They sometimes pair earthy notes in the base to enhance the illusion of moist soil. Ideal for both men and women, this family is a great match for daytime wear in spring and summer.
⁃ Oriental
With spices, musks, incense, and resins, Orientals trace their roots back to the dawn of fragrance creation in regions like India and Arabia, where the same ingredients were beloved centuries ago. Heliotrope, sandalwood, coumarin, vanilla, amber, and resin are commonly found in classic oriental fragrances. Mysterious and alluring, these perfumes are often suited for evening wear and have excellent longevity on the skin.
⁃ Woody
As the name suggests, woody fragrances are characterized by the rich, woody notes of trees, resins, moss, bark, and pine cones. Woody notes add depth, warmth, elegance, and richness to a fragrance, making them essential in perfumery. Common woody notes include sandalwood, pine, patchouli, vetiver, and cedarwood. These scents are elegant, refined, and easy to wear for any occasion, appealing to both men and women.